Crisis in Niger

I was in Niger, the poorest country in the world according to the United Nations, for two weeks in January. The people are suffering more than ever, and not just in the north where most of the Tuaregs live. I noticed changes from last year in Niamey, the capital. There are fewer cars and people on the streets, not as many stalls with fresh food. Prices for vegetables are about double what they were in Agadez last year. People are eating mostly starches such as yams, rice, millet and macaroni with a thin sauce made from a couple of small pieces of meat, spices and sometimes an onion or tomato. Few people, including Elhadji and his family, can afford to buy meat and vegetables. The Grande Marche is definitely quieter. In past years I had to fight my way through the crowds in the market. Now the merchants far outnumber the shoppers and I didn't see many people actually making purchases.

While I was in Niamey a landmine exploded not so far from Elhadji’s house. A man was killed and his female passenger was badly injured. A second landmine was found nearby. The government blames the Tuareg rebels. The rebels deny that they planted the mines. They claim that the government did it to create a crisis that would cancel the elections scheduled for 2009. Other landmines have exploded in the southern towns of Tahoua, Maradi and Tanout. According to the US Embassy security officer it is not known who was responsible.

The situation is much worse in Agadez and the Air Mountains. It was not safe for me to go to my home in Agadez because of landmines on the road and worries about fighting between the rebels and the military. There is no tourism so all of the hotels, travel agencies and restaurants are closed. There is nobody to buy souvenirs or be guided around the town. All of the people who work in tourism are unemployed and there is very little work for anyone. People are hungry and afraid to go out of their houses. Many people have left Agadez for Zinder, a city in the south, and Niamey, .Some have gone to Algeria and Libya.

In December my friend Abdulai and six other men were murdered by the military as they crossed the Tenere Desert on their way home from Libya. They had checked in with the military in Dirkou on the eastern side of the big desert to tell them where they were headed and to show that they were not carrying guns. The military says it was an accident as they got caught in the cross-fire in a battle with the rebels. The rebels deny that they were in the area, which is far south of where they have been known to operate. Reportedly the men called their families and the military on a satellite phone to say that a military surveillance plane was shadowing them. I have been told that their bodies were found in a shallow grave, some mutilated beyond recognition, and the money they were carrying is missing. Just a year before his murder Abdulai traveled with Larry and me on a trip of a lifetime into the deep Tenere Desert. He is Hausa and was the best mechanic in Agadez. He is survived by his wife and three young children, a son who is about nine and two preschool age daughters.

Iferouane, the largest town in the Air Mountains, was entirely abandoned by the 5,000 people who lived there because the town is surrounded by landmines and food could not be delivered. Some people, including members of Elhadji’s family, walked three days to Arlit, the mining town at the end of the main road. Other people walked to towns in the mountains. People in the Air are very hungry because they had to leave their animals behind and they have no money to buy food. Aid organizations are not going to those areas because of the danger.

The most practical way to get help to these destitute people is to contribute to Lost Frontiers Foundation, 919 Skillman Lane, Petaluma, Ca. 94952. It is a 501c3 charitable organization so contributions are tax deductible. I am on the board of directors for the organization. One hundred percent of the contributions marked for the assistance of Niger will get directly to the people. Elhadji’s father-in-law, Atefok, has been the mayor of Iferouane for 10 years. He is one of the few people who is still willing to travel to Arlit to buy food for the people there and for another village close enough for the men to go to Arlit and get it. At the moment there is nothing we can do for the people in the other villages in the Air as it is too dangerous for anyone to try to get there. He will also buy food for the Iferouane refugees in Agadez. Atefok is, as the Tuareg say, a “correct” man so the help will get there and not into his pocket. Two marabouts (holy men) in Agadez will buy food for people in that city. Malim is Elhadji’s brother-in-law. He has been distributing aid for me from my account. The other man, also named Elhadji, is one of Elhadji’s best friends. I have known both men for more than six years and can personally say that they, too, are “correct.” I have selected two men for Agadez as it is a fairly large town (or was until the troubles) and each marabout knows different people in need. Elhadji Koumama is taking care of his own extended family and many other people from the money he earns from the jewelry sales.

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